Can A Well Be Repaired

• #two

I had a Westminster Revere Electric with one cleaved rod

So I've been in that state of affairs and tried to repair. A waist of time.

I tried to replace the one. Failure I couldn't match the tone i needed to brand me happy. Music rod Steel is difficult and a stronger lathe is needed than most of the states accept to work the taper. Serious trial and error time.

I ended upwardly replacing the set. Your looking at Steel rods. That puts yous in the Ebay or hunting mode. Or get to copper. Naw not for a ST 113. A set will turn upward.

Good Luck

• #4

Y'all could attempt to punch out the slice in the block, taper the rod and reinstall as suggested.

Most probable the pitch will exist off requiring the shortening of all other rods.

If the rod is broken at the mounting block. Start, mensurate the original length of the broken rod, prepare your rod and install. Determine the amount it was shortened and reduce the length of all other rods by that amount.

• #six

Dave
In that location are a few of questions we need to know answers for.

• What is the textile of the rods (unremarkably bell-metallic, a sort of bronze but occasionally steel)
• Is the rod tapered at the mounting end?
• How is the end clamped to the block? Near are just driven into a hole but some (Junghans) have the rod flattened and then it grips the hole in the cake.

Don't do anything until we know these answers.

• #7

It's certainly worth giving a repair a become if the rod is steel and of the spiral in type.
I've repaired a lot of these successfully including those in a grandad I went to several months ago.
It had been transported without securing the rods and all bar a few were in the bottom of the example.
After removing the screws and cleaning the area well I brazed them dorsum together using oxy-acetylene. Despite the tapered expanse now having a modest statuary bulge they sounded fine to me and, more importantly, the customer.
Ive done quite a few single ones in the past also.

Equally an bated I've found the easiest manner to secure rods is to slide a piece of polystyrene up them, punching holes every bit you lot go. Locks them together actually well.

Ralph B.

• #nine

Thanks, Dave
Bell-metal is proficient; I recall that this might be the way forward:
Obtain a longer rod of like material and thickness from a supplier complete with tapered screw.
Drill and tap the cake and screw rod in tightly.
Tune it (shorten to raise note, file taper to lower it)

Indeed, it won't look very pretty, but the merely other recourse would exist to supervene upon the entire cake or effort to drill out the broken end and fit a new rod in the existing style - peradventure someone hither has encountered this type of cake and can give more exact detail?

HTH

• #13

Mike said:

Thanks, Dave
Bell-metallic is good; I think that this might be the mode forward:
Obtain a longer rod of similar material and thickness from a supplier complete with tapered screw.
Drill and tap the block and spiral rod in tightly.
Tune it (shorten to heighten note, file taper to lower it)

Indeed, information technology won't look very pretty, but the only other recourse would be to replace the entire block or attempt to drill out the broken finish and fit a new rod in the existing way - maybe someone here has encountered this type of block and can give more exact item?

HTH

Correct me if I am wrong, which would non be unusual, but I don't remember always seeing Bell metal chime rods for sale in parts houses. My experience in replacing chime rods has not been expert. Unless the original chime rods are steel or copper, you are kind of out of luck to try to replace a single Bell metal chinkle rod. My experience has been to replace the whole set. Steel and copper chime rods do not sound the same as Bell metal rods and oft the length of the replacement steel or copper rods practice non fit the space of the original Bong metal rods for the same pitch.
Whatever additional assistance from the experts on this subject would be appreciated.

Johnboy

• #14

Well-nigh of those we get here in Uk seem to be bong metallic, which looks similar copper. Nothing unusual about that every bit it is about lxxx% copper!

Steel ones are used in after (post-war) clocks mainly, but my experience is simply on British or German clocks - I take never handled an American chiming clock.

I have a mod Kieninger gong block in front end of me that was bought new a couple of years agone (from USA!) that is bong metal.

Some Junghans clocks use a different alloy that has a silvery colour, and
sound totally different.

The tone of a rod ( non the pitch) is different with different metals, and different if the diameter to length ratio changes.

• #16

You could not spray them - anything attached to a rod or gong, apart from its terminate attachment volition stop it from ringing; that would include paint.

The chinkle would just be a series of thuds! Y'all might be able to record it for the local chavs with 2ft speakers in their cars.

The Kieninger rods I have here are a copper colour with a slightly paler yellowish shade - almost certainly bell-metallic.

• #18

Great Luck

I don't have to tell ya to save the old ones.

• #nineteen

Is it better etiquette to start a new thread or hijack an old one with a similar question?

I take an older mantle clock with one broken rod and some other that looks and sounds wrong. The clock is not worth spending the $50 I would need for replacement chimes on ebay. I just desire to become information technology working for my own satisfaction. And then I am looking for a way to install replacement chimes, either by replacing the rods in the block or past finding a different block. Information technology does not have to look or sound original, but I would like to accept it sound decent. Ideally I would similar to find an old junker clock where the original owner didn't realize they could sell the original chimes on ebay for $l, simply I am wide open to other ideas.

Suggestions?

• #21

My rods seem to be flat on the back near the base, but the actual rods are round, and I think I might need to remove 2...the cleaved one and the longest one which appears to be copper and sounds terrible, simply it might just be for 60 minutes strikes.

Would I be correct in assuming that I drill or drive them back out from the chime/non-flat side? Where practice you lot detect replacements of the correct bore and material that are not already attached to threaded fittings? When you say taper, practice you hateful make it pointy so information technology is easier to drive dorsum into the block, or a more complex machining so that it looks similar a pencil with the point in the mounting block with a profile sort of like the text sketch below with the dots at that place merely to get the notches to sort of line upwardly (and increasing the chance that I will break the new i at the narrowest point when I try to drive it back in?

______ __________________
.........|/
_____|\___________________

• #23

My problem is that I cannot really see the original taper, except for the 1 that broke off, so I can't quite tell what it does. Is it something similar this? (paradigm from sketchup)

• #28

I should add together that, unfortunately, I practice non yet have a lathe, and so my options may be a fiddling limited. If I drill and tap the cake for a screw-in rod, will the sound be hideously different? (assuming I can tune the length to roughly the right tone). I would guess that 4 tuned rods would exist better than one. Are there screw-in rods that I tin snip off the ends and drive through?

I use a long piece of steel tubing, just a petty longer than the chime rod, (Restriction line)
Slide over the rod, tap tubing through block.

TEACLOCKS I am non quite sure I understand...drive out the old rod and replace with a tube? Or is the onetime rod inside the tube? Do you tune the length past ear?

Source: https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/can-chime-rods-be-repaired.35096/

Posted by: moralesclacers.blogspot.com

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