How To Remove Por 15

How to remove drippings in Por 15 engine enamel Started past Twan-Sloot, November 19, 2022, 11:55:05 AM Previous topic - Next topic Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged Hi guys, I blasted my oil pan, transmission pan and valve covers to requite them a fresh glaze of engine enamel. And then I got the por xv cad dark blue engine enamel. Prepped the metal and off I went. Paint had a nice sheen and it said on the container that one coat should exist plenty. So I tried that and it manifestly can’t be done in one coat. But in my attempt to practise then I got some drippings in my first glaze which practical about 30 minutes ago. Then my question who of you accept used the product and how to ready the drippings. Wait for the starting time layer to fully cure and then sand information technology and put some other coat on, or is the por fifteen thick enough to encompass those drippings with the second coat? All communication volition exist appreciated Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged Haha not much people have experience with their engine enamel. Well keep it that fashion. I wet sanded it all perfectly flat and put on a second coat. This time I didn’t want any paint runs so I put it on thin. Well and the consequence of putting it on thin is that the paint will testify brush strokes. So Por 15 engine enamel gives you the choice betwixt runs or strokes! your choice! I don’t like te production at all. Did everything acording to their instructions just information technology but doesn’t flow enough it’s to thick. I practise believe it is indistructable and rust preventive, the colour is correct equally well. It only doesn’t want to lay down smooth. I think it’south bang-up for the block itself but don’t put it on the pan or the valve covers merely doesn’t look as nice as spray paint. Better become the nib hirsch rattle cans. I’ll proceed my pans and valve covers similar this now because I practice think it’s the best protection for metal and the color is nice and glossy. I’ll put some pics up once they fully dry perchance the strokes will fade a lilliputian while curing TMoore - NTCLC Posts: 456 Logged I would have never considered that POR-fifteen had a right engine paint, so I was curious to see your results.  I understand that in one case it is on at that place, information technology is a very tough paint.  I have used the Bill Hirsch engine enamel on my projects, and have had good results - a overnice, shiny durable stop.  The colors are either an exact match to manufactory original, or the products take been used for and so long that the Hirsch colors are considered the de-facto correct colors for restoration. Post some pics - I am sure that your finished product volition take long-lasting results. Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged yes it is a long lasting effect once cured, but information technology only cures when yous put it on the engine and let it bake on there. it will stay soft if you just let it sit down. after looking at some other container of POR 15 engine enamel I think my first can might have been a bit dried up already when I opened it or something like that considering this can was more fluid. here y'all meet the results on the horizontal parts it turned out pretty nifty on the vertical parts pretty horrible urghh, Out of laziness I want to permit information technology sit the way information technology is, but I am afraid I will regret that. Leaning towards getting information technology off now while however removable and pigment with a VHT rattle can to get a smooth event. Roger Zimmermann Posts: iv,610 Switzerland Switzerland Roger Zimmermann CLC Number: 21015 Logged I would never use paint on sheet metal parts with a brush, only with a spray gun. In one case install, when the paint is getting hard, you may sand it (there is some space) and buff it. 1956 Sedan de Ville (sold) 1956 Eldorado Biarritz 1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold) 1972 Coupe de Ville 2011 DTS CLCMRC distributor #101 chrisntam Posts: three,472 Dallas, Texas North Texas Chris Jessen CLC Number: 29206 Logged Call the manufacturer and talk with tech support. 1970 Deville Convertible Dallas, Texas 76eldo Posts: half-dozen,655 Huntingdon Valley, Pa Brian Rachlin CLC Number: 22443 Logged I agree with the other posters. Castor paint should only be used on cast surfaces like heads or blocks. For tin parts like valve covers or an oil pan the Neb Hirsch spray paint for Cadillac is the best bet. I'd re blast the parts and start over. It's going to be much easier this fashion. Frustrating but the best way. Brian Rachlin Huntingdon Valley, Pa CLC # 22443 I prefer electronic mail'due south not PM's rachlin@comcast.net 1960 62 Serial Conv with Mill Tri Power 1970 DeVille Conv 1970 Eldo 1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino" 1973 Eldorado Conv Stride Car 1976 Eldorado Conv 1980 Eldorado H & E Conv 1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2) 2008 DTS 2012 CTS Coupe 2017 XT 1956 Thunderbird 1966 Olds Toronado 79 Eldorado Posts: 844 South Kent Logged Just adding some of my experiences with POR products: The typical POR15 black for frames, rust, etc tin absolutely be brushed on without leaving castor marks later. It just wets-out very well and then I can understand why someone may attempt information technology with their engine paints. I used quite a few of the POR products in the past and one thing I ever had some consequence with was their main pitch was rust preventative paint but it was never clear to me if ALL of their paints are paint-over-rust and have the same resistance. I noticed I was making some "leaps" with what they wrote almost things they never actually came out and said virtually other products. I did buy some of their engine pigment long ago. Their big marketing catch was much college quantity of solids compared to other paints and thus the fewer coats necessary. I seem to recall though I really limited my employ because the temperature resistance wasn't every bit high as another products and my biggest event with engine paints had always been area virtually high heat. That part may have been my perception merely anyhow I tended to favor VHT products and good surface prep for things which I know will run into heat. Recently I started to use the Rust Bullet products. If you dig through the information they have in their reference areas at that place is merely more than information in that location although sometimes hard to observe the relative reference yous may be looking for. As an case Rust Bullet posted some testing results of one Bridge Authorization (BA) where they compared the BA's best known solution to both silvery and black versions of Rust Bullet. As I recall the silver did slightly improve and silver was as good if not better than their best known solution. I don't recall you can find any relative comparison within POR products inside the POR family of products. As well I noticed that Rust Bullet maximum operating temperature seemed quite loftier for a product not really focused on temperature resistance. I would demand to verify what the can says just I can say as a examination case I coated some drum brakes with information technology and it seems to be property upward very well. One other observation with POR15 black specifically. Information technology is not UV resistant and requires a topcoat; fades in a relatively brusk amount of time. As such I painted some parts which I could not clean completely (trying to preserve an original logo) and I didn't await for the exact window which POR recommends for top coating with other paints. I noticed that the VHT top coat I added seemed to be getting sucked into the POR15 initial coat and the terminal product did not look as good every bit I had hoped. Regarding POR15 removal. Acetone will remove information technology if you accidentally drip POR15 on something and clean it relatively quickly merely partially dried. I haven't tried it for removal of something I purposely painted and let dry. I suspect that could be a challenge. It will completely peel off every bit a sheet if yous pigment flexible shine plastic though. I had what I felt was an ideal plastic container to paint from and I always merely let the POR15 dry in that container. The next time I need to paint I but skin out the complete liner of dried POR15 with zero balance adhesion. I exercise the aforementioned with my water ice tea mix scoop which I apply to transfer the POR15 to the plastic working container. Scott Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged Wow great wealth of information cheers guys, I retrieve I am going to re blast the parts allthough it’south frustrating but in the end it will pay off. Gonna get with a VHT base coat, then a color coat. Is it also appropriate to add the VHT engine articulate coat on top of that? 79 Eldorado Posts: 844 Due south Kent Logged Twan, One more thing. I remember before I blasted information technology I would effort a power sander afterward the POR is completely dry (It is hard to sand afterward completely drying based on POR15 gloss black). If that works you will need to top coat but you will still have a lot of protection from your initial coat. Too if this is a role which you only have one of I might be tempted to paint a test piece of something else and try removal techniques on that test office first. POR dries pretty thick then if that gives information technology some flex when the blaster hits information technology I think you lot are still looking at a lot of work. If a power sander tin feather out the uneven areas then you just demand to superlative coat with VHT or something else. Scott 67_Eldo Posts: i,011 sdownie CLC Number: 30815 Logged Quote from: 79 Eldorado on November 21, 2022, 12:59:15 PM I other ascertainment with POR15 black specifically. It is non UV resistant and requires a topcoat; fades in a relatively short amount of fourth dimension. Yup. And that relatively short amount of fourth dimension is indeed curt. My first attack on the roof rust on my 67 Eldorado was using POR15 and Rust Mort. I not only used POR15 direct from the can -- a little goes a LOOOOOOONG way -- merely besides as the resin substitute for a few fiberglas patches. The machine did not sit outside, and so its exposure to direct sunlight was minimal. Nevertheless, I was able to pull sections of the fiberglas and the POR15 off with a pair of pliers in less  than two months. Its color had changed from blackness to gray and its ability over rust was obviously weakened. I covered another section of my (pitted) top with Rust Mort. As soon as the Rust Mort finished its piece of work (in about 30 minutes), I cleaned upward the expanse and striking it with primer. Six months later, when surface rust was beginning to reappear on the untreated-merely-primer-ed areas of the peak, the Rust Mort-ed area was still rust free. 21st-century chemistry is nice, but it won't salve your bacon without some old-fashioned assistance. :-) Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged Quote from: 79 Eldorado on Nov 21, 2022, 01:xviii:04 PM Twan, 1 more matter. I call up earlier I blasted it I would try a ability sander after the POR is completely dry out (It is hard to sand after completely drying based on POR15 gloss black). If that works you will need to top glaze only you will still have a lot of protection from your initial glaze. Equally well if this is a part which yous only have one of I might be tempted to paint a test piece of something else and try removal techniques on that test part first. POR dries pretty thick so if that gives it some flex when the blaster hits it I think you are yet looking at a lot of work. If a power sander can feather out the uneven areas and then y'all just need to top coat with VHT or something else. Scott I was thinking of the same thing Scott, if the por is too thick it will bounce sand correct off and sandblasting would be a hard job, I have fourth dimension in the weekend and will see if the paint is nonetheless weak by then. Yesterday I could scratch it off with my nail. So if it is even so weak I approximate the sandblasting will take it right off. If it is cured past saturday it is probably gonna be a job for the grinder. I personally would similar to get the por off all the manner because after using it I think the product was designed to protect rusted metallic and not perfectly clean metallic. VHT on a clean metal base is the all-time pick at present in my opinion. Degreasing and painting has got to be the least favorable job of restoring a archetype haha 79 Eldorado Posts: 844 S Kent Logged There is always some risk when painting over something blasted that there is a tiny corporeality of rust not obvious to the naked middle remaining. I've had good luck with VHT epoxy primer-sealer. I believe information technology's an etching primer. The old product rattle tin was recognizably majestic in color but they changed their tin design. Since they changed it it seems to me they left off some description especially on what is their high temp version. I'm not familiar with Rust Mort which 67_Eldo used merely the issue described, to me, sounded similar either in that location was residual rust deep in the pores or that near primers are merely for prepping a surface and exercise not offer great protection past themselves. The primer needs to be a primer-sealer to offer protection. If it'due south an etching primer my limited understanding is it has something in the chemical science to handle the issue of something not visible. It sounds like the Rust Mort did that in 67 Eldo's test case. There are other products besides designed for blasting. I bought one but have not nevertheless tried it. Eastwood's "After Blast" is the one I have. I also recently used Rust Bullet silver painted on a thermostat housing and then I colour painted it with Duplicolor Oldsmobile blue. I would take used VHT as my preference, still over Rust Bullet, merely Duplicolor seems to be the only company all the same selling anything close to Oldsmobile blue   I blast outside and for the housing it was raining and I wanted to stop the task while still doing the best I could. Information technology was in good shape but in that location was some rust and then I manus sanded information technology and used i of the scotch-brite/ sandpaper flappers on my drill to clean it. I then used rust bullet. About one 60 minutes subsequently I sprayed with Duplicolor. That was the aforementioned thing I did to a rear beam which I was not planning to remove; simply detailing a bit afterward changing a leaky rear beam seal and rebuilding the drum brakes (so again not perfect cleaning). For the beam I used VHT chassis black primer-sealer over the top of the Rust Bullet for color. The axle housing/ brakes were done over a few days and I did find that if Rust Bullet dries thoroughly VHT had a difficult fourth dimension biting into the surface. I know because while haemorrhage the brakes some fluid got on the axle housing and some of the VHT wiped off. Brake fluid is really bad on paint but the Rust Bullet silver seemed to be ok underneath. I just cleaned it and re-sprayed with the color coat. I guess my bespeak is and I think the point 67 Eldo was making is even after diggings you may want to have something which can handle remaining rust or flash rust which you may non exist able to see. The existing POR engine pigment may take intendance of that. Hope it turns out to your satisfaction, Scott Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged Well later on trying to sand it which didn’t piece of work out well because the paint would crumble, I decided to have it all back to sandblaster. Took 4 hours in the blaster in combination with two cans of paint stripper, one thing is for certain I did prep the surface right concluding time. It was a tedious task, but worth it once I take It painted nice and tight. Vht engine primer going on now afterwards a expert shower and degreasing. 79 Eldorado Posts: 844 S Kent Logged Twan, I think information technology'south good that you at least tried sanding the paint first because if y'all hadn't you would take been wondering the entire time you spent blasting, four hours, if sanding would accept been a amend idea. I was really surprised to read that sanding resulted in the POR engine paint crumbling. That's probably the last thing I would take expected. Was it just so think that is places it was delaminating or something? Anyway the runs and droops are gone now, Scott Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged Well I think it started to crumble because por engine enamel won’t cure fully until it’southward baked on the engine. Since I didn’t want to put it on the engine outset the paint however wasn’t hard like a stone. That’s why sanding resultid in a unsmooth crumble like paint finish Roger Zimmermann Posts: 4,610 Switzerland Switzerland Roger Zimmermann CLC Number: 21015 Logged You may have time now to remove some dents from the oil pan! 1956 Sedan de Ville (sold) 1956 Eldorado Biarritz 1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold) 1972 Coupe de Ville 2011 DTS CLCMRC benefactor #101 Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged I didn’t show you guys how it looked before I painted the por xv on the pan simply it was extremely dented because some bubba put a jack under the pan once, it was dented and then far in it hit the oil pump slightly. I tried to nail that paring out with a big hammer but it didn’t want to motility at all. And so I got creative (see attached picture). Put it on a jack stand with a slice of wood in the pan and than dropped the caddy on information technology haha. Afterwards pressing information technology x times on diverse places I already was pretty proud of the results. The small-scale paring that is still left in the front of the pan which you can see in my previous post is hard to get out. It’southward on a nasty identify of the pan can’t figure out how to apply proper force there. Twan-Sloot Posts: 36 TMM van der Sloot Logged 79 Eldorado Posts: 844 S Kent Logged Twan, How many valve cover bolts do those use? When Oldsmobile went from ten to 5 on the 350 they were very difficult to seal. The covers don't accept much torque before distorting. There were some pieces which looked like shims that helped distribute the load but they are nevertheless very detail. Yours look like the ones someone else posted recently where they needed to remove head bolts merely to alter the valve comprehend gaskets. I could hardly believe it. If that is the case I wanted to at least mention something a local shop recently turned me on to Permatex's The Right stuff gasket maker. I've never used information technology on valve cover gaskets but I did utilize information technology thinly smeared over a rear differential comprehend I previously had an issue sealing and on a transmission pan gasket. I would still purchase the all-time gaskets I could but the next fourth dimension I do an Olds motor I think I volition attempt it on probably the oil pan and the valve covers. That said I'm non certain how difficult it is to remove if you e'er need to. I thought I would mention information technology considering at to the lowest degree I just encounter two commodities holes on one side of you valve cover. What a crappy place for the people designing thins like that to cheap-out-on. I'thou curious to hear if others have had experience with it. The local store does not similar come-backs for leaks and they swear by this stuff. https://www.permatex.com/our-brands/the-right-stuff/ Scott Cadillac & LaSalle Club Discussion Forum ► Cadillac & LaSalle Club Forums ► Technical / Authenticity (Moderators: The Tassie Devil(le), Lars Kneller 8246, quadfins, Barry M Wheeler #2189, Nib Hedge CLC 14424) ► How to remove drippings in Por xv engine enamel

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